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Direttissima (climbing)
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Direttissima (climbing) : ウィキペディア英語版
Direttissima (climbing)

A ''direttissima'' (Italian for "shortest link") is a climbing term meaning a direct climb to the summit of a mountain up the fall line from the valley base to the top. Whilst the normal route aims to find the way with the least difficulty, the climber attempting a ''direttissima'' faces the challenge of ascending the mountain in a more "direct" way.
The term comes from Italian climber, Emilio Comici, who said:
"I wish some day to make a route, and from the summit let fall a drop of water, and this is where my route will have gone"〔Venables, Stephen (2008). ''First Ascent'', Firefly.〕

There are usually many climbing routes to the summit of a mountain and it often takes days of studying to work out which route might be suitable.
Sometimes the theoretical considerations turn out to be impracticable or inexpedient in hindsight. But the alpinist who decides to climb a mountain peak or rock face ''direttissima'' may only depart slightly from the vertical line to the summit during his ascent. So there are many ''direttissime'' that will probably never be climbed; one of which is (not least because of avalanche risk), the ''direttissima'' of the East Face of the Kangshung on Mount Everest.
A famous ''direttissima'' in Europe is the vertical route up the Eiger North Face which is reserved for very experienced climbers.〔Gillman, Peter and Haston, Dougal (1966). ''Direttissima: The Eiger Assault'', Harper & Row.〕 The pursuit of ''direttissima'' routes has lost its importance since at least the 1980s as the emphasis switched to the different styles of climbing, such as redpoint, on-sight and flash.
== References ==


抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア(Wikipedia)
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